Silently, as dusk descends, they appear in the distance. Gradually the huge herd of buffalo advance to the waterhole at Main Hide.
That’s when the magic of the calmness hits you. And you also realize that the path back to the car park could be quite an adventure!
Lengwe National Park, in Chikwawa, in the southern region, was first set aside as a game reserve in 1928 to protect the large mammals in the Lower Shire Valley, especially the beautiful nyala antelope.
Later the government reduced it to 120 sq km to provide agricultural land: this is now referred to as Old Lengwe. But in 1970 Lengwe was given full national park status and in 1975 it was extended to 887 sq km, now bordering the Mwanza river and Mozambique, to protect the dwindling wildlife and the catchment areas of three rivers.
It is reached about 10km west from the main M8 road south of Chikwawa and about 90 minutes from Blantyre. This dirt track takes you through Illovo sugar plantation before a signed left turn to the main entrance.
The word Lengwe is a Mang’anja name describing the impenetrable thorny thicket in the east of the park, known locally as Lunguzi.
Lengwe has several waterholes, accessible from the main park roads, in atmospheric settings where you can sit and watch the wildlife pass by. The annual game count organised by the Wildlife and Environmental Society of Malawi’s Blantyre branch shows populations are steadily growing of the main species of antelope in the park, particularly the rare nyala.
Here in the Lower Shire Valley is the furthest north in the world these animals occur naturally. If you are quiet, sightings of the rare and very secretive small suni are frequent.
Lengwe also has a wide variety of birds, with over 350 species recorded including the colourful endemic Bohm’s bee-eater.
The park is in a semi-arid hot climate zone with an average annual rainfall of about 835mm, falling during the rainy season of December to March. At this time some of the network of park roads can be impassable – though you can visit Main Hide at any time of year. From April to August the climate is milder and cooler and starts hotting up again from September.
Visitors have a choice of accommodation provided at Nyala Lodge, only a kilometre from the main gate and run by Jambo Africa Limited. There are eight fully-equipped en suite chalets (two with air conditioning and six with fans) close to the Lodge itself and its swimming pool set in the bush.
Nearby is an extensive camping site and two thatched A-frame bedrooms, with electricity, close to all ablutions.
Recently completed next to the Lodge is a conference/banqueting centre for events and meetings.
The Lodge is most famous for its excellent, fresh and tasty meals, served in the outside dining area to guests and day visitors. So you can eat, drink and enjoy the wildlife and scenery at the same time!
Article written by Lindsay Macdonald